Jeep Rubicon Sway Bar Problems: Our Ongoing Fixes

If you own a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon—especially a JK model—you already know the electronic sway bar disconnect system can be one of the most frustrating design choices in Jeep history. When it works, it’s amazing. But most of the time? It doesn’t. And now, after years of running daily Jeep tours on rough Colorado terrain, Native Jeeps has battle-tested both JK and JL sway bar systems—and the issues just keep evolving.

JK Rubicon Sway Bar Disconnect: The Ongoing Headache

We’ve covered the JK sway bar disconnect problems in a previous post, but here’s a quick recap. The system fails constantly—especially when exposed to regular water crossings and high use. We tried upgrading to the EVO sway bar fix, which helped temporarily. But even that eventually rusted and seized.

After multiple cleanings, de-rusting attempts, and replacements, we gave up and welded the sway bar solid, switching to a JKS manual disconnect kit. That kit works well—as long as it’s greased regularly. Still, it’s a far cry from the push-button convenience Jeep promised.

JL Rubicon Sway Bar: Better, But Still Problematic

Fast forward to the newer JL Jeep Wranglers. We’ve got over six of them in our fleet, all Rubicons, and so far, the sway bar disconnect mechanism has held up. No rust. No shorts. No total failures. Jeep seems to have finally addressed the sealing issue in the newer models.

But new Jeeps bring new problems.

JL End Link Failures: Clunking, Loosening, and Safety Concerns

What we’re now seeing is consistent failures in the sway bar end links—especially with our aftermarket Teraflex sway bar end links. These end links tend to back off at the top nut, exposing threads that eventually get stripped or destroyed. The result? Clunking noises, poor highway handling, and in extreme cases, a complete detachment.

We initially tried red Loctite, which wasn’t enough. We’ve moved to green Loctite, but the problem seems tied to the end link design. The top portion uses a ball-and-socket joint with a hex socket, making it nearly impossible to properly torque without the hex getting in the way.

Our DIY Fix (So Far)

Frustrated again, we started welding the top of the stock sway bar end links (which accept a wrench) to the bottom Teraflex disconnects. These hybrid links have held up much better so far. But we’re still searching for a long-term solution that doesn’t require custom fabrication.

What’s Next? Testing New Sway Bar Link Options

There are a number of aftermarket sway bar end link options available, and we’re lining up a few for testing this season. If you’re battling similar  issues on your JL or JK, stay tuned. We’ll post our results and recommendations after putting the next round of hardware through its paces on Colorado’s toughest Jeep trails.

Key Takeaways for Jeepers:

• The JK electronic sway bar disconnect is failure-prone, especially with water exposure.

• JL sway bar systems seem better sealed—but end links are now the weak point.

• Aftermarket solutions may help, but few are perfect out of the box.

• We’ve had the best results with a custom hybrid setup, combining Teraflex and stock components.